Reviewer abroad: A fine dine in Paris at Atelier du Parc
Stray from the beaten tracks of Saint Germain and the Champs Elysees and youll find, to the delight of your tastebuds, fine dining in Paris exists beyond the 10th arrondissement. Still within the citys central confines and easily accessible by the Paris metro, Atelier du Parc turns its own contemporary spin on classic French cuisine, delivering dishes of exceptional quality and finesse.
Dining outside on a summer evening in Paris, we took a 38 (AU $51) three-course menu, and on the recommendation of the matre d, a crisp French white wine to accompany our choices.
We started with a tatin tart of seasonable vegetables and the veal and foie gras crust pie. The tatin tart was as fresh as flavoursome as it was colourful. A light tomato and olive foam blended perfectly between the vibrantly presently vegetables and the crisp and chewy crust beneath. And the cherry on top, a fresh basil puree adorning the dish. Set alongside a subtly soothing mustard sorbet and a taste of old wine vinegar jelly, the very generously-sized foie gras was a meal in itself honest, simple and with a warm rustic and homely flavour both unexpected and welcomed in a restaurant of such modern and unique styling.
Our inquiry as to the specialties of the restaurant was certainly a wise idea, as the menu is not short of tempting second courses. La bouillabaisse de lAtelier, the restaurants own seafood braise, was finished before our eyes as the waiter poured a glass beacon of aromatic, wholesome and hearty bouillabaisse sauce over a waiting bowl of fresh fish, shrimp and potatoes. The36-hour cooked sliced shoulder of lamb practically fell off the bone, tender and absorbed in its own juices. The succulent lamb shoulder, a clear testament to the chef, was served alongside a generous gratin and married well with an aubergine caviar.
We finished our feast with a white chocolate and vanilla cream concoction, complete with crunchy speculos biscuit and fresh juice-soaked cherries, and a sizeable iced nougat, a consistency that found the perfect ground between chewy and melt-in-your-mouth soft.
Atelier du Parc produces its own sparking water, boasts a cheese platter sourced from one of Frances premier fromagers, Marie Quatrehomme, and serves up warm and crunchy dark bread, compliments of the reputable Poujauran bakery. A fine meal, superbly presented and with attentive service, leaving enough time between courses to digest each lingering meal and all the variations of vibrant flavours therein.