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Wine of the week: Howard Park Riesling 2009

Written by Max Veenhuyzen 5th December, 2009

Howard Park Riesling 2009: $25.

It’s not out until January 2010, but when my sample bottle of the new Howard Park riesling arrived, curiosity got the better of me. To smell, fragrant with lemon and sherbet aromas. Initially, the palate looked quite tight save for the occasional whisper of delicate lime blossom and rose water but with time in the glass and a rise in temperature, came out of its shell to reveal juicy citrus flavours. But while the palate might shift in its seat a little, the wine’s core of tightly wound acid was staying put.

A major part of the wine’s appeal, bursts of memorable and long lasting acidity left the mouth refreshed and primed for more Great Southern greatness. Even for the typically tight-on-release Howard Park riesling, this looks quite austere at present but when I think about that finely tuned engine of fine acidity purring away beneath the hood...

Could well go down as one of Howard Park’s best ever rieslings. Don’t be deceived by the score, it’s still young now and I’m setting the baseline a touch low to give the wine ‘nuff space in years to come to stretch its legs and flaunt what Mama Nature gave it. 17.5+++

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